All you need to know about wire ferrules for Victron equipment

Posted by Peter Kennedy on 4/19/2024 to Tools and Equipment

Victron products have been using wire ferrules for years, but with the introduction of the MultiPlus-II they became more essential. Many people find them very frustrating. Products like the temperature sensor and voltage sense wires for the BMV series battery monitors come with ferrules already attached on the wires, just like in the photo below. If you have used these you will already know how much easier they are to use than bare wires.

The BMV series products use a spring loaded terminal block and its a lot easier to push in a ferrule than it is to push in a wire. The wires tend to bunch up or stick out and will do everything they can to not go in the hole, but the ferrule pops right in. We didnt have any problem sourcing or crimping our own ferrules for these kind of applications. The standard short insulated ferrule works perfectly well and there are no special requirements.

The next series of products that you can use ferrules on is for connections that have screw terminals. This would cover all the MPPT Charge Controllers, many of the chargers, and in fact most of the smaller Victron devices. For these a wire ferrule makes for a neater application but it not essential. We also didn't have any problem sourcing ferrules and found that the standard length insulated ferrule works just fine.

The photo below shows the Lynx BMS. This terminal block is almost impossible to install successfully without using ferrules because it is so small and only works with 18 awg wires. With ferrules it is super easy, and we found that standard length insulated ferrules worked just fine.

And finally we come to the MultiPlus-II. This is the one that causes all the problems. It really requires ferrules and it is quite specific about which ferrules will work and which wont. Try to do it without the correct gear and you will find it quite frustrating. The image below shown the AC connection area of the MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 2X120V and it shows the spring loaded terminals. The springs are super tight so pushing a bare wire in there is not going to work. You have to use a ferrule and it has to be the right size.

Trying to find the right ferrules for this took us some time and it is only when we met up with Ferrules Direct did we make any useful progress. Ferrules Direct can supply any kind of ferrules and the tools needed to crimp them. This is where we found out that ferrules are a European invention and that standard ferrules that are labelled 6 awg are not really 6 awg at all, but are just the nearest European equivalent. Ferrules Direct sell a full range of "TRUE AWG" ferrules that are to exact US specifications for wire size. For our test installation we used their part number SF133025 True 6 AWG (25mm Pin) Non Insulated Ferrules We found we had to use long Ferrules (these are 25 mm) and they had to be uninsulated because the insulated ones wont let you push them in far enough. These uninsulated ones went is so far there was no exposed conductor sticking out.

Because it took us so long to get the right gear for this we managed to accumulate quite a few crimping tools along the way and we found that one design was preferable for these ferrules which are extra long. In the photo below the ferrule goes in the end of the left hand crimper and because it will only go in so far only the end of the ferrule can be crimped. Using the crimper on the right the ferrule goes in from one side and sticks out the other side. It will still only crimp half the ferrule at a time but then you can move it and do a second crimp to do the second half.

Finally we come to removing the connection. This also has been the source of much frustration. The jaws are super strong and once they have gripped the ferrule they won't let go. You have to push in on the release tab in just the right way using a small flat head screwdriver. There is a bit of a trick to this. Once you figure out the trick the jaws will release easily and the wire will come right out. I have been told that the best tool for this is the Wera 338 series part 008101 which is a 2.5mm tip with a 45 degree bend. I have one on order and once it arrives I will try it out and make a video.

Why are they making us do all this? Victron are quite adamant that they picked the absolute best way to make the connections and are not at all apologetic for this. They understand that it is an inconvenience to have to source new tools and supplies for these connections but decided that the results justified the means. It has been as frustrating for me and it has been for many of you but now I feel empowered and these no longer phase me. I have to agree that they are extraordinarily powerful connectors and it is almost impossible to remove them by pulling the wire. I hope you agree.

3 Comments

Reuel

Date 5/15/2024

The SF133025 True 6 AWG (25mm Pin) Non Insulated Ferrules are a great find. But the crimp tool you are showing, Knipex 97-53-14, clearly says .08-10mm^2/ AWG 28-7 on the handle. I go to Knipex website and the same tool clearly says .08-6mm^2/AWG 28-10. I am confused. How can the same part number tool show different printing on the handles as to what size ferrules it fits? Did you use this same crimp tool for all the wire sizes in your article? I have contacted Knipex to see if they can shed any light on the different marking on the tool handle. I am assuming different revisions of the tool have different markings but in reality all handle the same range or ferrules.

Peter Kennedy

We bought three different crimp tools to try out. The Knipex tool on the left in the photo above is a really nice piece of engineering but will not work for the extra long ferrules because they go in from the end and will only go so far. We also bought another one from Contaclip but didn't really like it because it produced odd shaped crimp. So the one we ended up using was a cheapo one from Amazon that looks identical to the Knipex tool on the right in the photo above. Im not sure how long it is going to last but for now it was the one that worked best.

Pamela McAllister

Date 7/17/2024

I'm about to order an "old-style" Multiplus from you, the UL listed 12/3000/120-50. Does it require ferrules on the AC out? Trying to get all the bits and pieces assembled so I can install it as quickly as possible. Thanks.

Date 7/18/2024

Ferrules are nice to have for all these installations but are not required for the Multis that have screw terminals. The older style Multis use screw terminals. Most but not all of the MultiPlus-II models use push in terminals.

Jo

Date 10/4/2024

Hi Peter, thanks for your helpful blog! My apologies if you covered this, but I didn't see my specific smart controller so I wasn't sure if the spring loaded terminals you refer to are what mine has or now (I have no idea what I'm talking about). I have a Victron SmartSolar charge controller MPPT 100/30. Recently, a cable came loose and got so hot, it scorched and melted the terminal. I've ordered another one, but while I've now been informed I should be regularly checking these connections to make sure nothing comes loose like that again, I've also been advised that to help prevent it, I should add ferrules. But there is a little bit of a debate going on in a facebook group I'm in about whether I should (or even can) be using ferrules on my device. One person claims that I should use "crimp ferrules on the wire ends going into the screw terminals". Another claims you "shouldn’t use ferrules on cage type terminal blocks, only terminal blocks where the screw is in direct contact with the cable." I wish I had a better understanding of what all of this means, but I thought you may be able to offer some insight on my specific device. Thanks!

The connections of the 100/30 MPPT are different than the MultiPlus. They are much shorter, and they have screw terminals. Its the strong spring loaded jaws of the MultiPlus connector that make ferrules almost essential. With the MPPT they certainly aren't essential but I think they are very helpful and make for a much neater installation, especially if you want to use the max 6 awg wire size. I am all in favour of ferrules for any connection that will accept them.

All about using wire ferrules with Victron products

3 Comments

Reuel

Peter Kennedy

Pamela McAllister

Peter Kennedy

Jo

Peter Kennedy

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